{"@context":{"aiiso":"http:\/\/purl.org\/vocab\/aiiso\/schema#","arm":"https:\/\/ld4p.github.io\/arm\/core\/ontology\/0.1\/","bf":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/ontologies\/bibframe\/","bib":"https:\/\/bibliotek-o.org\/","bibo":"http:\/\/purl.org\/ontology\/bibo\/","cito":"http:\/\/purl.org\/spar\/cito\/","classSchemes":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/vocabulary\/classSchemes","dbo":"http:\/\/dbpedia.org\/ontology\/","dce":"http:\/\/purl.org\/dc\/elements\/1.1\/","dcmitype":"http:\/\/dublincore.org\/documents\/2000\/07\/11\/dcmi-type-vocabulary\/#","dcterms":"http:\/\/purl.org\/dc\/terms\/","ebucore":"http:\/\/www.ebu.ch\/metadata\/ontologies\/ebucore\/ebucore","edm":"http:\/\/www.europeana.eu\/schemas\/edm\/","foaf":"http:\/\/xmlns.com\/foaf\/spec\/#","frap":"http:\/\/purl.org\/cerif\/frapo","identifiers":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/vocabulary\/identifiers","ids":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/vocabulary\/identifiers\/","opaque":"http:\/\/opaquenamespace.org\/","pcdm":"http:\/\/pcdm.org\/models#","phaidra":"https:\/\/phaidra.org\/ontology\/","rdam":"http:\/\/rdaregistry.info\/Elements\/m\/","rdau":"http:\/\/rdaregistry.info\/Elements\/u\/","rdax":"http:\/\/rdaregistry.info\/Elements\/x\/","rdf":"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/1999\/02\/22-rdf-syntax-ns#","rdfs":"https:\/\/www.w3.org\/TR\/rdf-schema\/","relators":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/vocabulary\/relators","role":{"@context":{"advisor":{"@container":"@list","@id":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/vocabulary\/relators\/advisor"},"aut":{"@container":"@list","@id":"http:\/\/id.loc.gov\/vocabulary\/relators\/aut"}}},"schema":"http:\/\/schema.org\/","skos":"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2004\/02\/skos\/core#","skosxl":"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2008\/05\/skos-xl","vra":"http:\/\/purl.org\/vra\/"},"@id":"https:\/\/phaidra.bibliothek.uni-ak.ac.at\/o:75276","bf:note":[{"@type":"bf:Note","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"eng","@value":"Im Zentrum der Dissertation steht das 1922 von der französischen Kunsthändlerin,\nMäzenin und Sammlerin Marie Cuttoli (1879–1973) gegründete Myrbor, das aus zwei\nBlickwinkeln analysiert wird: Einerseits wird Myrbor als hybrider Ort zwischen\nModehaus, Kunstgalerie und Ausstellungsraum untersucht, andererseits werden die im\nAuftrag Cuttolis entstandenen Kleidungsstücke behandelt, die die Künstlerinnen Natalia\nGoncharova (1881 –1962) und Sarah Lipska (1882 –1973) für Myrbor entwarfen.\nDer erste Teil widmet sich kunstmarktbezogenen Fragestellungen wie der\nstrategischen Verortung Myrbors im entstehenden Zentrum des Pariser Kunstmarkts, der\narchitektonischen Gestaltung der Innenräume durch André Lurçat sowie Cuttolis\ninternationaler Sichtbarkeit und ihrem Netzwerken, insbesondere in die USA. Im zweiten\nTeil stehen die textilen Arbeiten von Goncharova und Lipska im Fokus. In diesem wird\nstilistischen und gattungsspezifischen Fragen nachgegangen wodurch erstmals einzelne\nWerke sowie deren produktions- und kunsthistorischen Entstehungskontexte in den\nVordergrund gerückt werden. Mit einem Inventar das 55 Myrbor-Modelle umfasst, bietet\ndie Dissertation den bislang umfassendsten Überblick über die Mode-Produktion von\nMyrbor.\nDie Dissertation zeigt, dass Myrbor weniger als Modehaus sondern viel mehr als\nhybrider Ort zwischen Mode, Kunst und Ausstellungspraxis verstanden werden muss. Die\nArbeit leistet damit einen Beitrag zur Erforschung weiblicher Handlungsspielräume im\nKunstmarkt, ihrer Netzwerke sowie zur Sichtbarkeit von Künstlerinnen und\nAuftraggeberinnen. Sie knüpft an aktuelle Diskussionen zur Rolle textiler Medien in der\nModerne an und bietet eine erste eingehende Analyse von Sarah Lipskas textilem Werk."}]},{"@type":"bf:Note","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"eng","@value":"The dissertation focuses on Myrbor, founded in 1922 by the French art dealer, patron and\ncollector Marie Cuttoli (1879-1973), and approaches it from two perspectives: on the one\nhand, Myrbor is examined as a hybrid space between fashion house, art gallery and\nexhibition space. On the other hand, the garments commissioned by Cuttoli and designed\nfor Myrbor by the artists Natalia Goncharova and Sarah Lipska are analysed.\nThe first part of the study addresses art market–related questions, including Myrbor’s\nstrategic positioning within the emerging centre of the Parisian art world, the architectural\ndesign of its interiors by André Lurçat, and Cuttoli’s international visibility and\nnetworking activities, particularly in the United States. The second part focuses on the\ntextile works of Goncharova and Lipska, addressing stylistic and medium-specific\nquestions and foregrounding, for the first time, individual pieces and their artistic and\nproduction contexts. Accompanied by an inventory of 55 Myrbor models, the dissertation\noffers the most comprehensive account to date of Myrbor’s garment production.\nThe dissertation demonstrates that Myrbor should be understood less as a traditional\nfashion house and more as a hybrid space operating at the intersection of fashion, art, and\nexhibition practice. Thus, the thesis contributes to current scholarship on women's agency\nwithin the art market, their professional networks, and the visibility of female artists and\npatrons. Moreover, it engages with ongoing discussions on the role of textile-based art at\nthe beginning of 20th century and offers the first in-depth analysis of Sarah Lipska’s\ntextile oeuvre."}]}],"dce:subject":[{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Myrbor"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Natalia Goncharova"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Sarah Lipska"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Marie Cuttoli"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Textil"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Moderne"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Kunstgeschichte"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"André Lurçat"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Helena Rubinstein"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Paul Poiret"}]},{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Germaine Bongard"}]}],"dce:title":[{"@type":"bf:Title","bf:mainTitle":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Marie Cuttolis Myrbor und ihre Zusammenarbeit mit Natalia Goncharova und Sarah Lipska"}]}],"dcterms:language":["deu"],"dcterms:type":[{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:exactMatch":["https:\/\/pid.phaidra.org\/vocabulary\/69ZZ-2KGX"],"skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"eng","@value":"Text"},{"@language":"deu","@value":"Text"},{"@language":"ita","@value":"Testo"}]}],"ebucore:filename":["_Diss_Final_Druck.pdf"],"ebucore:hasMimeType":["application\/pdf"],"edm:hasType":[{"@type":"skos:Concept","skos:exactMatch":["http:\/\/base.uni-ak.ac.at\/vocabulary\/doctoral_programmes"],"skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Dissertation"},{"@language":"eng","@value":"Dissertation"},{"@language":"ita","@value":"Tesi di dottorato"}]}],"edm:rights":["http:\/\/rightsstatements.org\/vocab\/InC\/1.0\/","http:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-nd\/4.0\/"],"frapo:isOutputOf":[{"@type":"aiiso:Programme","skos:exactMatch":["http:\/\/base.uni-ak.ac.at\/vocabulary\/c_a938098d"],"skos:prefLabel":[{"@language":"deu","@value":"Doktoratsstudium der Philosophie"},{"@language":"eng","@value":"Doctoral Programme in Philosophy"}]}],"role:advisor":[{"@type":"schema:Person","schema:familyName":[{"@value":"Kernbauer"}],"schema:givenName":[{"@value":"Eva"}],"skos:exactMatch":[{"@type":"ids:orcid","@value":"0000-0002-9590-7793"}]}],"role:aut":[{"@type":"schema:Person","schema:familyName":[{"@value":"Feledy"}],"schema:givenName":[{"@value":"Lilien Lisbeth"}]}]}